EXPERIMENTING WITH A TELEPHOTO ZOOM.

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Like many other landscape and travel photographers I have long relied upon my wide angle zoom lenses for the majority, if not all my efforts to produce evocative images.  But as time marches on I have taken onboard the advice of many of my Youtube heroes and moved to try and get closer to the landscape and architecture.Compressing the subject from its background can change the look and feel of the final composition into something more interesting and most often perhaps even more pleasurable to the viewer.  I bounce around from system to system.  I am not a professional and that is easy to see.  What I am is someone that is always looking for a change.  

The change has to be for the better.  Now that does not mean that the change will provide me with newer or better equipment.  Sometimes for me a change of system might provide inspiration.  EVF's have become a tool I prefer and enjoy to use.  My sight is failing and I feel that an optical viewfinder does not help me where I need help.In the last 10 years I have used Nikon, Olympus, Leica, Sony, Fuji, back to Nikon and at the moment I am back again with Sony.  It appears that I am not what you would refer to as brand loyal.  I have had a camera in my hands or near by for the last 40 years and as such I have seen very big advancements in every aspect of the hobby.I am currently using a Sony A7II (because my III has been backordered for 2 months) and several Sony lenses.  

I can only hope that the A7III is as good as its hype. I am of the opinion that it must be getting all the accolades and winning over the photographic community for good reason.  My last camera was a Nikon D850 that I would have been still using today if I did not drop it onto concrete from a hight 3 months ago.  It is a magnificent camera capable of exceptional things.As you have read in other posts I can be prone to the odd ramble and as such I am gonna get back to the reason for this post.  I have fallen in love with the Sony FE 70-200mm F4.  I find that it renders beautiful images and is light and relatively compact enough to take very little space in a bag.  

I have used it in several locations both on and off tripod and I feel it is a gem.The colours it produces are accurate and I feel it is just as sharp as other more expensive offerings from both Sony and it's competitors.  I can't speak to the Sony 70-200mm F4 from a technical perspective as I'm not interested.  All I can tell you is that I love it.  I would not rely upon it indoors with the A7II but if the hype is real with III then maybe with enough ambient light and A7S II like high ISO, then maybe it may be ok then too.  What is important to know is that the image quality and sharpness is certainly good enough for me.  The lens is constructed very well and to a high standard in my humble opinion.So what I have left is to provide a gallery of images taken over the last month with the Sony combo.   Please leave your thoughts in the comments below.

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Mont Blanc.

Mont Blanc.

Ypres.

Ypres.

Ypres

Ypres

Ypres

Ypres

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WE HAVE ALL SEEN THINGS.

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Most mornings I wake to ponder the day ahead and think to myself nothing will happen that I have not seen at some point before. Most often that statement rings true, however a couple of days ago as I stood in line at TSA pre screening in SEATAC airport I saw something I had never ever seen in the past. There stood a man two in front of me with a form of carry-on luggage of which the likes was unique to say the very least. This man who I will refer to hence forth as Cleatus stood well over six feet and was attired in contrasting plaid and camouflage. His singular proud tooth could be seen from space as it jutted at a right angle from his slack jawed mouth.Cleatus stood shouldering an overstuffed pillow case with what a young man about his local area would need for a holiday away.

I only know this because Cleatus’s pillow case had seen better days and was quite near the point of translucence.I am quite sure that this may have also been a first for TSA as well because Officer Yolanda was a little put out by the contents of the pillow case that had fallen out as it made it's way through the x-ray machine. I had forgot to mention earlier that Cleatus did not have any string around the top of his case to keep it closed in transit. In fact, I have to think that this may have been the first time Cletus may have ever been in transit.Some minutes later Cleatus left on his way and we had gone on ours. We arrived at Gate S8 in time to board our Delta Flight to Amsterdam. I usually have no trouble finding several humorous tid bits to comment on when flying transatlantically. I am happy (or am I?) to report that this journey was without folly.

Our on board staff were crackerjack and our seats were comfortable. Our menu was fabulous and the choices were grand. This is the first time I have flown internationally with Delta and I am very happy to say I hope it is not my last. The service and attention to detail is excellent. I suppose I could natter on about the 60 something couple in front of us.  I would have happily spent time in a Turkish prison to cheerfully murder both for their in-flight antics but that is a whole other story and I want to keep this one slanted towards puppies, cotton candy and unicorns.

We landed in Holland nine and half hours later feeling good and ready to attack the day. Our first stop was at Enterprise to pick up our rental for the next month and we sat second in line for service. As luck would have it our attendant from Ghana as I would later find out was named Godwin. Godwin was happy and smiley and I liked him immediately. As we all know Godwin was about to fleece the shit out of me in the upsell game. Sure we booked with Costco Travel and as such got a smoking price on a Fiat Panda “or similar”. Now, as per usual the “or similar” was considerably smaller than a Panda and Godwin warned us about the cramped quarters and restrictive space for our luggage thank god.Just ten minutes later, under a Ghanaian voodoo spell we left Schipol Airport.  I am at the wheel of a brand new Volvo XC60 with only 1100 km on it and we were rocketing south of Amsterdam with Antwerp in our sights (what do I know about Diamonds) & Godwin saved the day.

Several hours later and we found our way to Passendale in southern Belgium. This town holds a special place in my heart. I recently watched my eldest son parade here with the contingent of Canadian soldiers paying their respects to those who fought before them. The picture above is a part of a memorial commemorating 100 years since those brave Canadian lads pushed forward from the area of that gate to the church in the distance. 16000 Canadian casualties and ten days of wading in waiste deep mud to capture the town. Canada should always remember the bravery and sheer determination of our military heroes.   Today our pathetic prime minister minimizes spending on our military and wastes those dearly needed funds on legalizing marijuana. So there you have it. A PM who wishes for Canadians to have unfettered access to hallucinogenic drugs. So god help us.  Bust out the Oreos Mr PM, you can watch our military do their duty with vintage equipment safely from 24 Sussex after an epic game of C.O.D. and a Rebagliati .

Later we went to Vimy in France. Allistair and Deanna were filled with Canadian WWI history and we were comfortably checked in to our hotel in Amiens.  Timing is everything and in this case as we flopped into bed the TV went on and there was England trying desperately to clutch defeat from the jaws of victory as Columbia netted one in injury time to tie it up 1-1. Certain things are like death and taxes and one of those is England losing games on penalty kicks. Surprise, shock, awe etc etc.

Jordan Pickford stood on his head and as the The Sun Newspaper quoted in its next days front page headline, “The hand of Jord” saved the day and England lives on to meet Sweden in the quarter final.The following morning in Amiens our breakfast was lovely and we bid farewell to our comfortable beds and our pleasant hoteliers as we boarded Sven and drove southwest to Juno Beach and the Canadian Exhibit. I have been interested in the D-Day landings since learning of them as a lad. I have had the pleasure of visiting Dunkirk but this was the first time I had been lucky enough to visit the area Canadian soldiers fought bravely to liberate on that fateful day. We wandered the museum and took in two films based on the experience to later stroll the beach itself. It is truly an ominous feeling to walk along the beach in the Canadian soldiers footsteps. 

We left Juno the richer for the experience and set our sights for Provence and our ultimate destination. We were never going to make the whole journey in one go, so around mid afternoon Allistair  started to work the Hotels.com app for places along our route that were affordable and quiet.We were not disappointed but our hosts were truly surprised as I ran from our car in a deluge that I have never experienced the likes of before. The rain hurt it was coming down so hard. I got to the door and I was met by a couple that have recently opened their 300 year old farmhouse on 4 hectares to guests. They were a young Dutch couple with two kids that we later learned over Heineken had moved to Normandy to escape the rat race in Holland. We sat at their kitchen table and chatted until midnight as we learned about the area and they learned about Vancouver Island. We slept like babies and woke to the smell of fresh baked bread and croissants with pots of apricot and lavender jam.

Thanks Hotels.com!

Thanks Le Rianon

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Back in Sven around 9 and we drove 5 Kms to Boussac to fill his tank and to wander about on market day. An awesome morning and then we settled into our drive south to Bonnieux in the Luberon valley of Provence. The weather has averaged 35c since our arrival and we are happily tucked away in a beautiful French Provençal home for the next two weeks. Thanks AirBnB! We are now temporary members of the local Tennis Club and can’t  wait to make ourselves more at home.Thanks so much Godwin. You are a star. Stand by for more adventure...  

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PEOPLE SAY THE DARNEDEST THINGS AND AUSTRIA

The time has come to place my new carryon size wheelie bag in the car and kindly ask Deanna to drive me out to the airport so that I can meet Dale and our journey can begin in earnest.  The weather at Victoria International Airport was best described as “meh” and as such I didn’t feel that we were going to be missing much while we are away for the next 10 days.Today’s journey will be of epic length and will include three planes, one train and at least a couple of automobiles. For those keeping score at home, I have indeed just mentioned that our journey could be considered very similar to a movie from the 80’s where two fellows decide through necessity to travel together from New York to Chicago. Our journey neither starts nor ends in the Windy City, however it does begin on Vancouver Island and will hopefully finish some 27 hours later in Austria.

I suppose many of the keen movie buffs amongst you are wondering who of us most resembles the character played by the late great John Candy on this adventure. Suffice to say that I just had to remind Dale that those aren’t pillows he is jamming his hands into.After we organized boarding passes and said our goodbyes we made our way to CATSA screening and stepped into the abyss. It wasn’t too busy but unfortunately it was also understaffed and therefore slow going.The slow moving cue eventually split and along with several American ladies I was directed towards the furthest X-ray station. As there were only five travellers in our group, I soon began to wonder why it was taking so long to get to the point I could remove my IPad, small liquids and gels and place them gently into the neatly stacked white plastic bins as you do at every airport I have ever been to around the world.I stepped back a little to see if I could figure it out the delay.

It was no surprise I suppose that each of these ladies had believed it was a great idea to place each souvenir purchased, each piece of clothing worn and each copy of People Magazine read into their open top shopping bags.  Just to further complicate things, the lovely and patient shepherd herding sheep today for CATSA had to ask that most of these items be separated and placed in additional bins.Upon completion of this seemingly arduous task I clearly overheard the shepherd ask if they had any electronic devices that they had not yet removed from their bags. The reply he got was quite unequivocal. “No” and with that the first bin was pushed along the rollers and into the X-ray.It disappeared for a moment and then soon returned back at breakneck speed. The shepherd asked if the owner of the bags in that particular bin if she was traveling with an IPad? The reply was “yes”. That was countered with “I thought you just told me you had no electronics in your bag?” A simple question I thought. But not so simple as it turned out. The lady in question replied that “in the states they have a different definition of electronics”.An IPad does not meet that definition apparently. Clearly the Kindle and IPhone subsequently appearing from the same bag moments later further pointed to the flawed Canadian broader definition of electronics.

We as Canadians need to stop causing real hardships for confused cross boarder shoppers. Perhaps Trudeau can publicly apologize (with tears) for that as well. He seems to be good at apologizing to everyone for everything.We got through eventually and we soon found a couple of stools to sit on at Spinnakers in the downstairs departure lounge. We sat there for an hour and then moved towards our gate.With typical WestJet banter the flight was called and we made our way aboard with high hopes of clear skies to Calgary. Our row was shy one passenger so we had tons of room. An hour or so later and we were on the ground in Calgary. A smooth transition to the international side and there we grabbed some dinner.After dinner we moved next door to a nicely appointed lounge called VIN. This place was a little upmarket but this is a vacation so a little treat can’t hurt.I soon spotted a sixty something man sitting on his own against the back wall attired from head to toe in Saskatchewan Roughriders apparel. For those who don’t know much about the Canadian Football League, this means he was dressed completely in green complimented with white logos.Initially I thought this guy must be a super fan who is getting in the spirit several months before the season kicks off. He must be just killing time in international until he meanders back to the domestic side to catch a flight home to Regina.  

We sat down next to the super fan in question and I was just about to chat him up when his extremely forlorn looking wife appeared and slumped in the chair adjacent.Our perceptive waiter was soon to inquire if everything was ok. The rest is comedy gold and I will confidently state now that nothing will make me “LOL” harder on this trip than her well considered response.  She took a deep breath as if she was about to weep and then explained she had just returned from checking the departure board and to her dismay their flight had been really delayed.The waiter asked where they were flying. Her response was to my surprise London. Before you judge me I just thought there aren’t many destinations on this planet that you would wander about dressed like a leprechaun with footballs silkscreened on your chest, London included.  She went on to explain to the waiter that they were supposed to leave at 6:50 pm. The departure board now says the flight has been delayed to 18:50. That’s a really long time and the price of the waiters rum was very expensive.The waiter replied compassionately that he was sorry about the prices but the bastard never even thought about explaining the 24 hour clock to the misguided Rider faithful. With that she acquiesced and ordered another expensive rum and a half carafe of Diet Coke “on the side”.It wasn’t long before we were aboard WS1 bound for Gatwick and seated one row behind the privileged once again. Story of my life.

Always a bridesmaid, never a bride. WestJet operates transatlantic flights with a no frills service. You may purchase a meal if you wish. Don’t expect a blanket but the crew are cheerful and seem to really care about their customers.So much so that 4 hours into the journey our flight attendant came on the PA to request us to pull down our window blinds. She went on to advise that soon we would be “flying near the sun” and some passengers may prefer to sleep. Now I’m no historian but as I recall flying near the sun was not such a great idea for Icarus.I rejoin you today from Platform 2 at Salzburg railway station. We are resting after an 05:30 alarm and subsequent walking tour (self guided) through old Salzburg.  Last night after a picturesque train journey from Munich we quickly stored our luggage in our room at the very hip Villa Carleton Hotel and then boarded a cab for a local beer garden. This place had several floors of beer halls and numerous food vendors that all had their own version of roast chicken and wurst. We drank a customary litre of the house brau and scoffed a couple curry wurst. A little bit of carnivore nirvana.

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The Last Bus (Actually Hyundai) to Woodstock.

Today was an awesome day, as was yesterday.  Yesterday we spent our time driving through the dales of County Northumberland and County Durham.  The villages were friendly and quaint and the feel of all of them was inviting and warm.Intially we set sail west along the Tyne Valley towards a small Roman town by the name of Corbridge.  We had stopped there for a short time last year but this time we made sure to soak up more of what it had to offer.  We parked in the market town square upon arrival and then promptly asked a local where to get the best breakfast in town.
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OPULENCE, NOTHING LESS.

If you live on Vancouver Island and you wish to travel to far off destinations, the best travel deals usually start on the mainland just a 90 minute ferry ride away.  For the last couple of years I have become a slave to Chris Myden and his YVR Deals page on twitter.  Lately there have been some exciting and very reasonable offers that will certainly aid me in seeing a few parts of the world I have never seen.  Turning 50 does come with a mortality check and a bucket list.When one travels by car to the Vancouver International Airport on an average day, it requires the patience of Jobe and the reflexes of an Olympic fencer. Firstly one must assume the position of a tie fighter pilot.  One must feel the force. One must out last the relentless attacks by the Empire's pilots to survive (Whalley-Newton Cabbies).If you arrive in tact, you must then solve for X to figure out the parking puck system.  If you succeed and qualify for a spot on Jeopardy you now have the pleasure of humping your bags from the car to the departure level.With those steps behind you it's time to do your best lemming impression and line up to check your bags and get your boarding passes.  I know, I know, you can use the self-service kiosks.  If they were so simple why do they have an attendant who dearly wishes they had passed the cabin crew test to help you navigate it (not you LuLu).Ok, so you are checked in and you have said goodbye to your bags (maybe for the last time). And now you must make your way through security.  If all goes well and you get to keep your shoes on you can make your way to one of the copious eating or drinking establishments where the staff will soon commence a complete fleecing of all your wool at cheque time.Today is different, today is one of the nicest travel days I have ever had.  And the weird part is I haven't even gone anywhere yet.  Yesterday I made the executive decision to throw caution to the wind and bust out the old Fairmont Hotels Presidents Club Card.  Yesterday It was a very simple process that saw me inquire, decide and book  a room at the Vancouver Airport Fairmont Hotel on their app in no time flat.  Not only did I choose this as a preface to travelling to Japan tomorrow, I went one further.  Would you like to upgrade to the Gold Level Mr. Catto?  Let me see, do I want 24 hour concierge service? Do I want unfettered access to the gold lounge for canapés, evening deserts, the honor bar and first in line at the Spa?  Yes I think I do!IMG_0001So here I sit with my feet up in my room 24 hours before I leave for Osaka.  I am listening to the in room music service play classical guitar.  Music soothes the savage beast they say.  They must be right.  I have not felt like yelling at anyone in several hours.  I have no idea what the selection of canapés and beverages might look like when we cross the hall to the Gold Lounge.  There is no apprehension here, I have trained myself for this showdown.  Suffice to say I shan't be unhappy.yvrdeals.comwww.fairmont.com/VancouverAirport
  
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One Should Winter in Monte Carlo.

Its been several days and hundreds of miles since the last time I had the time to collect my thoughts and recount some of the more memorable places and people we have seen and met.I write today from my sun chair on the patio of our Gite in the Luberon Valley.  The Luberon is an unbelievable wine growing region in the South of France.  I will speak more to this area and our accommodations in a blog I intend to write tonight.  Suffice to say that I have not felt this relaxed in a long long time.We landed back in Rome on Sunday afternoon and made our way to Thrifty Car Rental for our customary Italian 90 minute wait as the Thrifty employees tried to up-sell every one of the 30 Asian couples that got there ahead of us.  I don’t even think they knew what they were signing but many of them will be surprised to learn they have actually purchased their new rental car. When they leave to go home I wish them luck with fitting their new wheels into their wheelie luggage. It will be a challenge given the thousands of dollars worth of Fendi, Armani and Prada items they are soon to also power buy from reputable North African gentlemen.Once free of the mayhem, we walked to find our car and to our surprise and trepidation it was a “Blanco Fiat 500”.  I thought it was torture climbing in and out of the car we had in the UK.  Well it turns out that Anthony (our 500) was no such thing.  Sure small, but easy in and out and relatively peppy.  I mention peppy as those of you who have traveled on the highways and byways of Italy will know, the drivers are just a little aggressive.  It is kill or be killed.  No-one has patience and no-one stops for pedestrians.We got out on to the Autostrada heading north, as we had booked an AirBnB in Siena for the night.  Ninety minutes of hair raising F1 driving later and we were there in the ancient walled hill town that hosts the Palio horse race and is such a beautiful must not miss bucket list place.
We met Sylvia our host and got the 411 on all the things to do.  I had been here in the past so I was ready to get at it.  We walked straight to the Campo and took in its sights, smells and soon after sounds.  Just as we got orientated we could hear off in the distance the band and voices of a Contrada (neighbourhood group).They appeared from the north east with the flags up front, then the drums, then the male voices and then everyone else.  I don't know for sure but I assumed that this contrada won the Palio last and this was a celebration and bragging rights parade.  We sat in a Campo osteria and ordered a typical light supper consisting of bruschetta with a meat and cheese plate.  That was accompanied with pane de casa and two Peroni Rosso beers.Once done we made our way to the Duomo and I took my time to take a ton of photographs of the Cathedral in all its black and white marble splendour.  Then back to our place and early to rise.  On the road to Pisa and then on to San Remo.Pisa is something I had always given a miss in past trips as I thought it would be swarmed with tourists and not up to much.  Wrong on one account.  Yes it is swarming with tourists but on the contrary it is a site to see.  It is amazing to see up close.  It is not what I thought and I was very impressed by everything especially the lean.What I don't want to leave out is that we drove to a parking lot literally less than two minutes walk from the tower.  We paid one euro to park and the rest was free (the memories).  Go there.  See that!We left Pisa Northbound towards the Italian Riviera and the City of San Remo.  Busy, beautiful, manic, loud, crazy, traffic, hairy.  We got into our AirBnB & immediately went out to the supermarket to get a few things.  Had a quick look around the harbour and back to sleep.  A long day.  Actually I would never advise anyone to stop there now that I have been myself.  Give it a miss.We got up early and were on the upper corniche to Monaco.  Yes, now we are talking.  Order, clean, sophisticated and absolutely stunning in every way.  We parked in the centre of Monte Carlo and began our 4 hour trek from place to place which included all the hot spots.  I am sure Angus fancied himself James Bond for a few moments outside the Casino.  The opulence was unreal. Every luxury brand and every luxury / super car imaginable.It is so hot here in the South of France that eventually we had to stop for refreshments and believe it or not I broke the rule for the first of 2 consecutive times.  I never stop at any multi national chains when travelling.  I like the local mom and pop places that serve you right and you can make a personal bond with.Suffice to say that I have just been to the nicest Starbucks in the world.  Period!!!  It sits adjacent to the Fairmont hotel in a perfect position to gaze out to the Med or to watch the Grand Prix if you had your timing right.  Incredible experience and the prices were the same as home.  That, along with the next embarrassing moment I must divulge was also reasonable in price.Did you guess right? Have you ever found yourself in France or Belgium and thought to yourself, I want a Royal with Cheese?  Yep, it happened!  We walked into McDonalds and we had the meal deal.  This was also the most modern south facing McDonalds in the world.  Adorned with Picasso prints and the most modern furniture, not your average Mickey D's. With tray in hand, I sat near a Picasso in an Eames chair.  Gross with some gross on top, but good for the 10 minutes it was in my gob and yet to digest.From there it was back to find Anthony and on to an incredible highway that took us along the coast to Cannes, San Tropez and then inland through the vineyards and olive groves of Provence.  This it it ladies and gents.  Nirvana times ten.  A good hot with a chilled vibe.  I may not be at work next week.Until next time!Mark
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I CALL THIS ONE STRUBARB

Its been a couple of days since I last wrote but as we have been so busy well into the evenings I have not had the energy since being back in the UK. This morning I find myself looking out from my bedroom window southward into an overcast but as yet dry morning. Not much happens in this very small Lake District town in the National Park.On Sunday we touched down in the UK at Newcastle International Airport. We quickly rented a car and were off to the coast so I could do a bit of tour guiding around my first home and many of the sights in the area. We first stopped in for fish and chips in North Sheilds and sat overlooking the mouth of the Tyne River as ferry boats were leaving back towards Holland. The weather was perfect so we sat there for 45 minutes in the sun.

From there it was a drive along the coast to the north thru Tynemouth, Cullercoats, and Whitley Bay. We weren't the only ones soaking up the evening sun as the roads were busy and the walkers filled the coastal paths. Once we could clearly see St. Mary's lighthouse we pulled off the road and walked down to photograph it as the sun set.After a while the travel of the day began to catch up so we decided to pop in to the pub just around the corner from my old family home in the village of Cullercoats. The Sandpiper has never changed on the outside since 1972, but inside it has been redecorated into a super cool casual yet quite uncharacteristicly hip lounge feel. The chairs are covered in floral prints and most of the accouterments are in the color of sandstone. We each had a half a pint and vowed to return. A quick spin by the old house and then into Newcastle and the Holiday Inn Express in the center of the city.For a Sunday evening I could not get over the thousands of students out on the streets. Apparently Newcastle has become one of the country's favorite college towns. Three large campuses interwoven throughout the city overwhelms all other businesses to be seen. We got to sleep early and then early to rise. We were up, had our free breakfast and gone.

We headed over the Tyne Bridge and set sail for a little village where my grandparents lived to survey any change and wander the beach. Job done and then we walked about the little shops. Thankfully this place has not changed one iota because it is a very pretty and quaint.More driving and looking about and then back into Newcastle to have dinner with friends. Now it must be said that I had asked earlier in the day if we could have an Indian meal as it is my favourite and where I live good South Asian restaurants are rare.We met our friends at the Bodega pub for a few real ales and then pushed on to a place thirty yards from the HIE.

I believe AKBARS is a chain of restaurants in the north of England. Most of their dishes are Pakistani in spice origin which little did I know continues to effect you in a weird way 36 hours later. Oh my babaji was that hot. The yogurt accompanyment was unable to do its job. The Tiger beer was also useless. On fire people. When I asked the waiter how you ever get used to this he replied with his hands up in the air and his head moving from side to side " oh sir I do not eat this food. This is Pakistani and I am from Bangladesh. We do not eat such spicy food. I recommend a Bangladeshi restaurant for you sir".Well that advice was just a little tardy in our current sweaty state so we plod on and devour the flames like a fire eating side show freak at the carnival.

The thing was the meal was excellent. It tested your metal but was excellent none the less. We bid farewell to our friends who graciously treated us and promised to return next year to repay the favour. It was awesome to spend that time together. Guts churning but happy it was straight to bed for early to rise.After breakfast we loaded the car and left westward to Cumbria through the Tyne valley. The highway follows Emporer Hadrian's wall built in Roman conquest times to keep the angry Scots from entering without going through passport control.There are well preserved stretches of the wall visible from the highway as well as Roman forts. The sights and sounds don't stop with the Romans. We made a great decision to visit the town of Hexam.

It is a stunning place near to perfect in every way. I could live here as well. The town center is built around an abbey that can be dated back to the first century A.D.We met an elderly man inside who was a keen historian and volunteer who regaled us with many very interesting facts. I really could go on forever as he and this place were fantastic. We left the abbey and wandered the tight back streets to mail a postcard and enjoy market day in the town square. From Hexam we continued to Carlisle where Angus toured the university while I sat in the sun. Gus was suitably impressed and came away with lots of information.

We had a drive around Carlisle and then pushed on 31 miles south to the Lake District and our next AirBnB operated by Jan from South Africa. Jan told me that he met his local wife when her family emigrated to his country 40 years ago. They had been wanting to move back for many years and when the opportunity knocked they bought two listed GrII houses next door to each other. One they BnB and the other they live in. He took me in and immediately you could tell you were in a home built in the 17th century. Every doorway was small and the stairs narrow. But all that to say it was excellent. Two of its best features were that it was less than 5 minutes from the Bitter End and Swann pubs. We spent a couple of hours chatting to the bartender while enjoying the locally brewed Jennings bitter. Great host and very chatty.

At the Swann is where it got hyper British. In the snug next to our table sat a dozen blue haired coffin dodgers all having a pint or cup of tea while discussing the virtues of the right crackers to have when one is sampling different chutneys. Of course tonight was the night that the local gardners guild was having a little best of show competition to judge the years best chutney in the village. Gripping stuff and clearly very serious given the general conversation. They soon had me convinced this was not for the faint hearted. Then Tom took the floor to introduce his entry for 2016. Ladies and gents, I call this one "Strubarb". I have painstakingly blended the sweetest of seasonal strawberries and the tartest rhubarb to make this.

A deafening hush came upon the room. What was this abomination, this isn't cricket old boy. This is a traditional group, we don't go in for Strubarb. Sorry old man, not this year. Tom snatched his jar and crackers and stormed off. Serious group, serious chutney. It was good to know chutney is not up to anyones interpretation. To end the night was a walk to the late night chippy for the obligatory beer mop. Haddock and chips twice please. Order filled and back to Jan's place. BBC ten o'clock news, devour and sleep!Cheers!Mark

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Waiter! Back in the States, we call that a Hawaiian Pizza.

Another day in the cradle of civilization went very well if I may say so myself. Given that we had already hit the majority of the “biggies” over the course of the last few outings, today was a day for “a little bit country and a little bit rock and roll”. For those in the crowd that love and pine for the retro tones of Donny and Marie, here’s looking at you kids!We left our place this morning once again on a straight shot to St. Peters. It may sound like we always end up there but actually we always end up there. Not always because we intend to but mainly because it is five minutes from our AirBnB on the way to literally everything else.

We walked straight by this morning except for one deviation as I stopped & watched intently as a plain clothes Roma Police team shook down a Gypsy who was a bit too aggressive with the elderly pilgrims in town for a “god time” not a long time. Just as I had observed a Caribinieri officer smash a “Gypo" for pickpocketing in Florence many moons ago, this was just as entertaining. Perhaps most reading this would think I may have a black heart but these thieving little Bas**ards deserve everything they get.

If you never ventured out of tourist Rome you may think that every Roman gets a mega stipend at birth so they may look, smell and be great. I guess its a rouse, these folks have jobs. We walked past the Italian Navy HQ. White uniforms were the order of the day and there were hundreds. I have been suffering with my obligatory heat rash about the ankles as per usual in this country. Deanna has suffered through many a day and night with me here (mostly Venice or Assisi) & helps me administer the usually useless ointments at the conclusion of every long day. Today I went to a pharmacy and in my best broken Italian asked the chemist what she thought.

Fifteen seconds later with a short confab with her senior and over the counter came a spray pump bottle containing instant relief and reversible symptom treatment within an hour.I have been here numerous times and just plain suffered. Stupid is as stupid does once said a wise ping pong playing man. So with relief came a notion to head to a cafe, have some lunch and a beer or two and then finish it all off with a tiramisu and a wicked smooth espresso. Joy in Mudville peeps, all is well in the world. Fuelled and good to go. 150 meters west and we stood in front of a church I did not recognize. The Church of Gesu’. Im gonna say it, second best and rivalling the best of the bunch we have had the honour to visit. I’m all out of adjectives. Crazy crazy beautiful. After 45 minutes sitting in several seats around the building with our necks cranked way back it was time to think about the off.Uber requested and a six minute wait.

While we wait I will explain todays title. About an hour earlier, all was going smoothly at the Cafe Napoleon. Then Chip and Buffy and their friends Chip and Buffy decided to co-join our table. Buffy 1 had one policy. Only stop talking when food was inserted in her gob. Her incessant jabbering about Alabama was starting to make my ears bleed. Chip 1 didn't say much, I'm not sure he was authorized to. Our waiter was good, multi lingual and really sharp. Buffy 1 wanted pizza. She pointed to the menu in an effort to order. It would have been much easier to annunciate but oh well. The waiter confirmed her choice of prosciutto & pineapple as he clearly didn't get many locals placing that order. He spoke clearly in English to confirm the choice. He read back the toppings. Thats when Buffy 1 tried to explain in “American” that back in the states they call that a Hawaiian Pizza.

Luca tried to keep a straight face however there was a strong hint of you are a stupido oozing out from his every pour. Next came Buffy 2 who only wanted a salad as she was watching her weight (we learned). Buffy 2 wanted to know if she could get ranch dressing on the side. The response from Luca was what kind of dressing? Olio and balsamic, that is what we have. Buffy 2 was just a little stunned as they have ranch dressing back in the states and as it turns out on Carnival Cruise lines too. Chip 1 and Chip 2 ordered pasta carbonara. This prompted Buffy 2 to reconsider her original order. “Could I have a pasta carbonara too waiter? Trump could win….. Buffy 2’s diet starts tomorrow!

Cheers,

Marco

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WITHOUT SUFFERING, A PILGRIMAGE IT IS NOT

That is a dramatic title for what was just a wee bit of suffering.

This is the second night that finds me sleeping in an apartment that literally sits in the shadow of the Vatican walls. Last night we landed at Fumancino Airport in Rome after our second flights of the day arrived from London and Paris respectively. What comes as a shock to me is that all of those thousands of miles were enjoyable & truly seamless. No hassles, great transatlantic sleeps and very good in-flight service. In fact after rubbing elbows with thousands of weary travellers in airports and during our first day in Rome, it was Sunday's experience of a lifetime aboard a BC Ferry that led me to believe this journey may be cursed. We were seated first but unfortunately for us it was the party of two that followed who would be our entertainment and pause for concern.

I will start by saying that the man in this couple was not the problem. He did his best to nervously laugh when appropriate and crisis negotiate when he got the feeling that his life was hanging in the balance. His table mate (Attila) was somewhat animated. It was clear soon into breakfast that this poor man was going to be carrying the weight of every husband, boyfriend, fling or pen pal that Atilla had ever had or attempted to conquer. The storys of Attila's woe were magnificent and colourful, if not concerning and suspenseful. Both concerning and suspenseful in the way that you watch and listen intently at a Stephen King movie when you fancy a good old fright.

Atilla's shrill voice and regular thrusting motion towards this kind man with her fork in a terrorizing fashion was starting to slow (but not curb) my ability to inhale the ferry eggo waffles (with the strawberries and whipped cream).I watched mid chew as the poor man pushed his chair back at one point to create time and distance. Not a bad plan I thought to myself as I watched his body twitch uncontrollably in a defensive posture. If we had a right as Canadian's to bestow medals on other Canadians, that guy would have been awarded a chest full as we pulled in to Tsawwassen terminal.It was not until we were walking to our bus on the ferry that I overheard the man speak to Attila in a very pensive manner. The man told Atilla that this was the first time that he ever travelled to play in the Vancouver Symphony orchestra with anyone other than his wife and that he would now gently and carefully bid farewell. He would be making the rest of the journey into the city with a waiting friend who unfortunately drives a two seater Smart car. I sensed this veiled and weak excuse was a fib. But hey, I can't believe he took the barrage of stranger danger from Attila for that long (considering he had just met her the night previous at a rehearsal). Wind instruments make strange bedfellows. So..... We are here in Vatican City. The weather is glorious and the temperature is 27. I was up at 5 and it was time to make online reservations for the Vatican Museum. For those who have been you will remember the lines and the crowds. For those who look forward to a visit, there are two very important actions that must be undertaken. Get a reservation and make it early.

I had downloaded my Rick Steves podcast tours for everything Vatican and a ticket confirmation pdf. on my phone by booking online. Upon arrival by foot we strolled by literally thousands waiting in lines and walked right in.Second time in the Vatican museum for me and a first for Gus. I followed him as he walked slowly trying to take it all in. I attempted to photograph his hanging jaw. The museum is second to none. Every artifact is stunning. The gardens are wonderful and the Sistine Chapel is out of this world. It is hard to comprehend when you are gazing up at the ceiling of the chapel that the frescos were painted by Michelangelo.

The chapel irregularly hosts all the cardinals at the time of Papal election.We left the museum and set course for St.Peters Square. Ten minutes later and we had exchanged smiles with several of the Pope's Swiss Guard and we were through security & bound to enter the basilica.Photos not words will hopefully paint a picture of this church and all its grandure. We took the time to sit in silence with other worshippers. I felt a tad rusty as I have not been to mass for several years. I'm glad we did. From there we toured the toombs of the Popes that had gone before. We left after nearly three hours feeling really good inside. If only our feet felt the same way. Sore and tired but not to be stopped, we walked east towards the Tiber and along its banks. More to see and then a quick pit stop for a sandwich and water at a local grocery store. A seat outside of a beautiful white Roman building allowed us time to snack. Five kilometres later (up-hill) and we are back at our AirBnB. As the dining room clock struck 7:00 pm Gus was snoring and I began this rambling.

There is always tomorrow.

Ciao

Marco.....

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TRAVEL APPS, I USE THEM!

I HAVE BECOME QUITE DEPENDANT ON TRAVEL APPS.

It has been ages since I have travelled anywhere without turning to several of my favourite travel apps for advice or help for one thing or another.  Far be it from me to try to convince anyone that I am tech savvy or anything even closely resembling a beard wearing hipster.  Sure, I may be typing on a MacBook Pro.  I might be staring down my second pour over and fantasizing over my next microbrew from some plaid wearing "expert's" growler in Portland Ore.  But that does not make me one of them.I am 51 years of age.  I couldn't muster the energy to grow a beard or have my hair cut "faded" close to the skin twice weekly for all the gourmet fair trade coffee in Brooklyn.

Allow me to get to the meat on the bone.  I have developed somewhat of a process when I choose a destination.  I first turn to TripAdvisor.  I like trip advisor for several reasons.  If I am looking for the most important things to see and do, I scour TA.  If I have an area in mind and a few hotels that might fit the bill, I turn to TA for honest reviews.One mustn't always make hotel choices by TA alone.  There are several other ways to limit ones exposure to an uncomfortable night in a poorly run hotel or B&B.  When I am looking for accommodation I first look for price.  If I wish to travel often on my own I have to try to do it in a somewhat frugal yet never stingy way.  

My go-to best price Apps are Hotwire, Hotels.com, Priceline, Hotel Tonight, and often times AirBnB.As many folks well know, Hotwire and Priceline require a gamblers spirit.  You commit to a limit and both will tell you where you will be saying without very little other input from you.  I have come to really like Hotels.com.  I have stayed in several gems as a result on a very economical budget.  AirBnB is also fantastic.  Our last trip to Paris was an outstanding affair as a result of a small but clean and well situated apartment in the 18th.When it comes to travel I turn to Skiplagged for international flights.  

As I typically start my journeys on the west coast of Canada I find Skiplagged to be the best at hunting high and low for great prices.  I also head over to Chris Marden's site at YVRdeals.com  Chris has some epic deals.  I also use the regular sites at Air Canada, British Airways and as a last ditch try, AirTransat.com.Once I reach a hub airport city such as London, Amsterdam, or Paris I turn to Easyjet, Jet2, or Ryanair.  All have good apps.  I prefer Easyjet, but thats not to mean it s the best of the bunch in the air.  All that said they are my favourite.  When it comes to european travel I always look to use my time to expand my horizon's and mind.  With that I try to visit as many museums, galleries and important landmarks as possible.  

As most of you are already aware when you arrive at these locations you pay your admission fee and at that time you are offered an audio tour at extra expense.  I turn to Rick Steves.  Rick has downloadable podcast tours for nearly all the major important sites.  They are free and excellent.These are just a year few of my favourites.  I use them to prepare for every trip.  As long as I am prepared I am satisfied.  I tend to remain away from technology during a day of travel.  I enjoy talking to and learning from the locals and other visitors.  Its easy to strike up conversations if you remain humble and well mannered.  If you have other favourites that I haven't mentioned please send me a note in the comments section.

Cheers and Walk Across It All.

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