The Magic of Casa Julian in Tolosa.
As you wander through the cobbled streets of Tolosa, a charming Basque town nestled in the verdant Oria Valley, you'll find an unassuming gem that has been serving gastronomic delights for over six decades: Casa Julian. Established in 1954 by Julian Arrieta, this family-run steakhouse has become legendary among steak connoisseurs and food enthusiasts alike.
Tolosa lies about 30 minutes south of the foody capital & coastal city of San Sebastián, easily reachable by train or bus. But it's not just the ease of access that draws you to this enchanted town; it's the magnetic allure of the famed Casa Julian. Stepping into the restaurant feels like entering a time capsule, with its rustic stone walls, smoky aroma, and the heartwarming sight of the family tending to the grill. The menu may be simple, but it has been perfected over generations. The pièce de résistance, of course, is the Txuleta, a succulent, bone-in ribeye steak cooked to perfection on an open wood-fired grill. The dining experience is rounded out with traditional sides, such as roasted piquillo peppers, fresh salad, and crusty bread, all paired impeccably with local Basque wines.
As you savour each bite of the heavenly steak, soaking in the convivial atmosphere and animated conversations, you'll be struck by the genuine warmth and passion of the family who keeps Casa Julian's culinary legacy alive. Matías Gorrotxategi, Julian's son, now helms the grill, while his sister, Pilar, tends to guests with a heartening smile. The unpretentious ambiance, punctuated by the sound of sizzling steaks and the clinking of wine glasses, is nothing short of intoxicating.
Once you've basked in the glow of Casa Julian's culinary wonders, it's time to explore Tolosa and let the sumptuous meal settle. The town's picturesque streets and plazas provide the perfect backdrop for a leisurely post-meal stroll. As you amble along the Oria River, make your way to the 13th-century Church of Santa Maria, a stunning example of Basque Gothic architecture. Continue to the colourful Plaza de Euskal Herria, where weekly markets and vibrant cultural events breathe life into the heart of the town.
Your enchanting walking tour of Tolosa would not be complete without indulging in the town's famous sweets. Pop into a local pastelería to sample the delectable Xaxus, almond-based pastries that are the pride of the town. As you relish these sweet treats, you'll find yourself reflecting on the delightful marriage of tradition and culinary prowess that defines both Casa Julian and the charming town of Tolosa. The magic of this Basque haven will leave an indelible mark on your heart, beckoning you to return to its enchanting streets & alleyways time and time again.
And now to walk it off!
PINTXOS, NOT TAPAS...
I am delighted to share that we are here and enjoying the Basque Country of Northwest Spain. After leaving Andorra's small but beautiful Principality a few days ago, we made our way closer to the Atlantic coast. We decided to settle just a few kilometres from San Sebastien.
Today we spend a little time on traditional food. And, what goes better with local, traditional food than conventional, local beer and wine. So, this post is all about describing & discussing the beloved local tradition of Pintxos - a Basque version of tapas that are as delicious as they are unique.
The origins of Pintxos can be traced back to the Basque Country, where they have been a staple of the local cuisine for generations. "pintxo" means "spike" in Basque and refers to the toothpick that holds the ingredients together. These small bites are often served on a slice of bread and come in various flavours and combinations, such as grilled octopus & prawns, cured meats, olives, anchovies or cheese.
What makes Pintxos so unique is the way they are served. You can find them displayed on the counters of local bars, and diners are encouraged to help themselves to their favourites. The toothpicks are used to track how many Pintxos you've eaten, and you pay at the end of the meal based on how many toothpicks you've accumulated. It's a fun and interactive way to enjoy a meal with friends, and the local Basque ingredients make it even more special.
While tapas can be found throughout Spain, Pintxos is a unique and essential part of the Basque culinary experience. The flavours and ingredients reflect the regional culture, and the tradition of sharing food and conversation with friends is deeply ingrained in the local way of life. So if you find yourself exploring the Basque Country, be sure to indulge in the local tradition of Pintxos. Your taste buds will thank you, and you'll gain a new appreciation for the joy of small bites and big flavours. Cheers to good food and great adventures! I would be remiss if I didn't go on now to describe the local libations, as they are just as important to the culinary experience.
The Basque Country is famous for its Txakoli wine, a slightly sparkling white wine produced exclusively in the region. It's crisp and refreshing, with a light acidity that pairs perfectly with Pintxos. In recent years, the local winemakers have also started producing red wines and rosés, but Txakoli remains the most popular and iconic Basque wine.
If you're not a wine fan, fear not - the Basque Country also has a thriving craft beer scene. The local brews are often made with regional ingredients, such as hops from the nearby Pyrenees mountains. The most popular beer in the region is called Keler, a refreshing lager that pairs well with the bold flavours of Pintxos. But if you're feeling adventurous, try a local specialty like Basqueland Brewing or Laugar Brewery.
What makes Basque wine and beer so special is how they reflect the local culture and traditions. The Txakoli grapes are grown on terraced vineyards that have been used for hundreds of years, and the local breweries use traditional methods to create unique and flavorful beers. Drinking and dining in the Basque Country are not just about the taste - it's a way to connect with the local community and experience the region's rich history and culture. So raise a glass of Txakoli or Keler and toast to the joy of sharing good food and great company.
Thanks for stopping by, and I hope to read your comments if you have enjoyed the food on show.
Live well & Salud!
M
p.s. The following curated images were captured with both the Leica SL2-S and Q2.
FOR THOSE “WHO IDENTIFY” AS GEN X AND THIRSTY!
As I have said many times in the past, London is one of my favourite cities in the world. I am of the opinion that travelling to the real deal better satisfies not just appetite and thirst, but also the mind and soul. Far be it from me to go on about galleries, museums, stunning architecture and local history. That’s not for everyone. Some may prefer to visit old London bridge in a place called Lake Havasu City. Depending on who you ask, places like this apparently stand as “accurate reflections” of the actual location’s they represent.
Moving on, it must be beer o’clock somewhere? If like us, you are looking to experience the best of London's watering holes while also getting in a few thousand steps? Well, its go time my thirsty friends, because a pub crawl (not literally) along the South bank of the Thames might just be the perfect way to satisfy both of those desires. Not only will you be able to sample some of the city's finest ales, but you'll also get to take in some stunning views of the of the skyline along the way.
Because we normally stay in the square mile or the east end, I have set a course that starts closer to Westminster and ends nearer to our bohemian neighborhood. If you prefer to stay closer to Mayfair or the alike, try this route in reverse.
Here are 10 pubs along the South Bank of the Thames that will put you in the right mood, in order from west to east:
The Tattershall Castle: (actually this pub is now moored on the North bank adjacent to New Scotland Yard). This unique pub is located on a boat, moored on the riverbank. The Tattershall Castle offers stunning views of the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament, and has a large outdoor seating area perfect for a sunny day.
The White Hart: This charming pub is located in the heart of the historic neighborhood of Southwark. It has a cozy interior with exposed brick walls, and serves up a great selection of real ales.
The Anchor Bankside: This iconic pub has been a fixture on the South Bank for over 800 years. It's said that William Shakespeare used to drink here, and the pub's outdoor seating area is a great spot to take in views of the Globe Theatre and the river.
The Doggett's Coat and Badge: Located next to Blackfriars Bridge, this traditional pub is named after the oldest rowing race in the world. The cozy interior is decorated with rowing memorabilia, and the pub serves up a great selection of beer and pub grub.
The Blackfriars: This historic pub is housed in a beautiful Art Nouveau building, and has a large outdoor terrace overlooking the river. The pub serves up a great selection of craft beers and cocktails.
The Founders Arms: This popular pub has a large outdoor seating area with stunning views of St. Paul's Cathedral. It's a great spot to grab a pint after a walk across the Millennium Bridge.
The Old Thameside Inn: Located just a stone's throw from the iconic Shard building, this traditional pub has a large outdoor seating area on the riverbank. The pub serves up a great selection of real ales and pub classics.
The Horniman at Hays: This historic pub is housed in a former tea warehouse, and has a large outdoor terrace with views of Tower Bridge. The pub serves up a great selection of craft beers and artisanal pizzas.
The Captain Kidd: This nautically-themed pub is named after the infamous pirate who was hanged at Execution Dock, just a short walk away. The pub has a large outdoor seating area and serves up a great selection of seafood.
The Prospect of Whitby: This historic pub dates back to the 16th century, and has a large outdoor seating area with views of the river and Canary Wharf. The pub is said to have been a favorite haunt of Charles Dickens, and serves up a great selection of real ales and pub class.
Its important to keep in mind that the following list is not exhaustive and the taste and flavor profiles can vary depending on the batch and brewer. When you stop to rest your weary feet at these public houses, I suggest you try some of both the following mainstream beers as well as some of the most sought after micro brews:
Fuller's London Pride
Kernel Brewery London Sour
Sambrook's Brewery Wandle
Meantime Brewing Co.
Camden Town Brewery Hells Lager
Fourpure Brewing Co. - Pils Lager
The Kernel Brewery - London Sour
Camden Town Brewery - Hells Lager
Siren Craft Brew - Soundwave IPA
Brixton Brewery - Electric IPA
Partizan Brewing - Saison Lemongrass
Redemption Brewing Co. - Big Chief IPA
Pressure Drop Brewing - Pale Fire Pale Ale
Gipsy Hill Brewing Company - Hepcat Session IPA
As you walk along the South Bank from west to east, you'll see some of London's most iconic and historic landmarks on both sides of the river. Here are a few standouts and a few interesting facts about each:
The Palace of Westminster: Located directly across the river from the Tattershall Castle, the Palace of Westminster, also known as the Houses of Parliament, is one of the most recognizable landmarks in London. It has been the home of British politics since the 11th century, and the current neo-gothic building was constructed in the 19th century after a fire destroyed the previous building.
The London Eye: Standing at 135 meters tall, the London Eye is a cantilevered observation wheel that offers stunning views of the city. It was originally built as a temporary structure to celebrate the Millennium in 2000, but it proved so popular that it became a permanent fixture on the London skyline.
The Tate Modern: Housed in a former power station, the Tate Modern is one of the world's most famous contemporary art galleries. It's known for its striking architecture, which combines the industrial feel of the power station with sleek, modern design.
The Globe Theatre: Located next to the Anchor Bankside pub, the Globe Theatre is a faithful reconstruction of the original Elizabethan theatre that was home to many of Shakespeare's plays. The theatre hosts regular performances of Shakespeare's plays, and offers tours and exhibitions about the history of the theatre.
Tower Bridge: Just a short walk from the Horniman at Hays pub, Tower Bridge is one of London's most iconic landmarks. Built in the late 19th century, it's a suspension bridge that spans the River Thames, and is famous for its twin towers and ornate Victorian design.
The Tower of London: Located just next to Tower Bridge, the Tower of London is a historic castle that has served as a royal palace, a prison, and a treasury over the centuries. It's famous for its iconic White Tower, and for housing the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.
To sum up, if you're a beer lover and find yourself in London, you're in for a treat! With a wide variety of local microbreweries and delicious flagship beers, you're sure to find something to suit your taste.
So, whether you're a seasoned beer drinker or just curious to try something new, London's local breweries are not to be missed. Cheers to your next adventure along the banks of the Thames!
Before I leave you, I just remembered to check my iPhone activity app. To my surprise it seems this route took 17970 steps to complete. Give this trek a try one day. It’s not just good for quenching a thirst, it’s good for the soul as well!
All photos taken with the Leica Q2 Ghost.
Please leave a comment if you have a moment. I really enjoy hearing from you!
Live Well!
Mark
